Holistic Health

The Safety of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

The following is a resumé on Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) which have been attracting much attention in the last decade.

AHA's are potent ingredients which appear in most commercial skin and body creams, especially those designed for the face and neck and their function is to that dissolve the outer layer of skin cells and by so doing, give the skin an appearance of renewed smoothness and tone. However, this can allow other ingredients in the skin cream formula that were never intended to penetrate the skin barrier, to enter the deeper layers of skin cells where they can cause a multitude of adverse reactions including serious health problems. When the outer layer of skin cells is removed, some of our natural protection against the sun's ultraviolet rays is lost.

The safety of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs or the so-called skin peelers), which are ingredients used in numerous face creams to peel the top layer of dead skin cells from the face and so reduce the appearance of wrinkles, is coming under increasing scrutiny by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the European Union Commission. Neither agency is considering a complete ban but both are calling for further studies to be done.

AHAs actually cause skin to age quicker by increasing sensitivity to UV radiation and discouraging skin cells to naturally regenerate so the skin becomes “lazy”. Removing the outer layer of facial skin cells removes part of the skin's natural barrier to the sun's rays. Recent studies, sponsored by the FDA, show that AHAs, specifically glycolic acid, can make skin more susceptible to sun damage, including sunburn. But this is a temporary effect and in most cases is reversible after the use of an AHA product is discontinued although it is considered that some damage to the skin may be permanent and sensitivity may result. The FDA and EEU imposed a label ruling after a request petition submitted by the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) regarding sun sensitivity along the lines of, "Sun Alert: Because this product may make your skin more sensitive to the sun, be certain you have adequate sunscreen protection while using this product and for a week after you discontinue use."

There are also extreme concerns about the effects of long-term use of AHAs and the FDA is collaborating with the National Toxicology Program to assess the safety of long-term use although it doesn't expect any results for several years. However, test results indicate without doubt that AHA's cause skin irritation including severe burns and where the depth of penetration removes too much of the outer layer of skin it can allow the absorption of other cosmetic ingredients which are not intended to be absorbed and are harmful if they are. It is for the above reasons – and because of our commitment to using only natural/organic ingredients – that AHA's will not be found in the ingredients listing of our products.

Our products are made with love and care by our team of experienced bio chemists well versed in the art of creating Natural and Organic skincare products to international standards.   We are registered with the *CTFA of South Africa (Cosmetic Toiletries and Fragrance Association and The Allied Health Professions Council of South Africa, Our products are approved by Beauty Without Cruelty.
*Note: The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa is the industry's voice committed to maintaining the high quality and safety of cosmetic products. The CTFA guides members on the Self-regulatory Codes of Practice & Standards to ensure that the South African cosmetic industry flourishes.

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